Buying The Motorcycle Leather Jackets That You Need

There are plenty of motorcycle leather jackets on the market. You might find yourself overwhelmed by the number of offers available. The conundrum is that on one hand you have plenty of designs of colors and sizes to choose from, but you can make the wrong choice if you do not know what you are doing. A part from the obvious aspect of the quality of the motorcycle leather jacket there is also the aspect of the fashion involved in buying any piece of clothing. It's imperative to know what to consider when shopping for a motorcycle jackets so as to be considered fashion-forward and in style. A jacket actually is an investment in your image. You ought to avoid being a fashion victim and consider the right reasons that make buying a jacket a good and sound investment, without having to stress about replacing it any time soon. Start by establishing your available budget for this purchase. If you have the money be as generous as your pocket will allow you because picking out something special from all of those leather jacket is a real treat. Keep in mind that you will be using it for years, divide the amount you can afford into years or per month expenditure and you will see that in actuality buying a jacket is quite affordable.

Take a look at your motorcycle and at your closet. You should decide on the color of the jacket. Consider what you can match with it. Usually the best colors for a leather jacket are brown and black. Do not forget to consider your skin tone and what best defines your image. Brown underlines a more stylish, formal look defined by two adjectives: soft and cuddlier, while black is the traditional look for a harder edge.

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Next shop around and find the best stores with the best price. It would be advisable to check out shops that have a wide range of motorcycle jackets and that also offer some sort of guarantee. Try to buy your jacket from a store that has been for a while and with a good reputation. You do not want to have nasty surprise later on. When searching among all the motorcycle leather jackets on a store feel the leather before buying. Compare the feel of each jacket that you like, you should try to be as soft as possible. Think of the situation in which you will be wearing the jacket. In case you intend on wearing it around in the city, in the afternoon, when you go out you can try out one that has a buttery feel, a soft and comfortable motorcycle leather jacket. In case you intend on wearing it while ridding you should go for one that has a thicker leather. You could fall off the bike it will offer some sort of protection in case of a spill.

When inspecting motorcycle leather jackets be very attentive with the lining. Carefully inspect it because you need quality lining. Be on a look out for any splits in seams or lining that is thin. In case it is too thin it will not last for long. You will definitely have problems with it. After you have browsed around motorcycle leather jackets and you have picked the right one for you do not buy it without actually trying it on. Its proportions should perfectly fit to your body and structure. In case you are muscular you will probably not want to use shoulder pads. You should use shoulder pad if you want a better silhouette. Consider the sleeves, that should reach perfectly near the base of the thumb. Look into the mirror and move. Try making some usual movements like swinging your arms side to side or raising and lowering them. The bottom part of the jacket should fall somewhere between the waist and hip. Here you have some room to maneuver because it depends on the look you want for you.

When browsing through motorcycle leather jackets you should know that there are two models. One is called diamond and the other single diamond. You can also choose to pick up a personalized leather jacket. Diamond motorcycle leather jackets have a more dress type feel and the double diamond motorcycle leather jackets have a zipper over the lapel. Usually you can place artwork on the back in order to have a customized jacket. You probably have seen the image of a chopper placed on the back. When it comes to artwork you should not be afraid to be creative. Also you can choose from more than one type of leather. You can find among all the motorcycle leather jackets some that have deerskin, cowhide, horsehide, and sheepskin for leather motorcycle jackets, and those are naming a slim few. When shopping through motorcycle leather jackets you will probably find out that their vast majority is made from either lambskin leather or cowhide leather.

Lambskin leather has the advantage of being softer and glossier than cowhide leather. Usually such a jacket offers a dressy look. The disadvantage is that it is not as durable as cowhide leather. Unfortunately you have to take extra care of it because it rapidly shows scratches and tears easily. On the other hand cowhide leather ages well and has a more rugged, rough appearance, thus promoting the image of the traditional type of biker. This type of leather will stand out in the case of vintage jackets, just another type of motorcycle leather jackets. When browsing through motorcycle leather jackets remember that a good leather jacket can put the final finishing touch on a man's wardrobe. Get as much information as you can before actually choosing one from all of those motorcycle leather jackets available in stores.

Buying The Motorcycle Leather Jackets That You Need

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The History of the HID Motorcycle Headlight

High Intensity Discharge HID lighting doesn't use the filament that's generally discovered in regular automotive or motorcycle gentle bulbs. As an alternative, the bulb is filled with Xenon gas. The gas is ignited and creates an arc of light from the high voltage. The amount of gentle output is claimed to be three occasions a standard halogen bulb. HID lights burn at a higher gentle temperature that gives gives them the white-blue appearance.

Note that a ballast is needed to begin the HID light burning, because the light units usually need thirty amps or so at startup, which would overwhelm a motorcycle's electrical system if the lamp was started with out a ballast. The ballast provides the increased electrical current at startup without greater amperage. This means that in most instances, the HID light and ballast program can work with the bike's existing fuse and wiring. HID lights take only 5 amps or so right after the initial burn up.

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HID stands for high-intensity discharge, a term referring towards the electric arc that produces the light. The high depth from the arc comes from metallic salts which are vapourised inside the arc chamber. These lamps are formally recognized as gas-discharge burners, and produce more light for a offered degree of power consumption than ordinary tungsten and tungsten-halogen bulbs. Because of the elevated amounts of light obtainable from HID burners relative to halogen bulbs, HID headlamps creating a given beam sample can be created smaller than halogen headlamps producing a comparable beam sample. Alternatively, the bigger size could be retained, in which case the xenon headlamp can create a much more robust beam pattern.

Automotive HID lamps are commonly known as "xenon headlamps", although they're really steel halide lamps that include xenon gasoline. The xenon gas permits the lamps to create minimally adequate gentle immediately upon powerup, and accelerates the lamps' run-up time. If argon were utilized as an alternative, as is commonly done in street lights and other stationary steel halide lamp applications, it would consider several minutes for the lamps to reach their full output. The gentle from HID headlamps has a distinct bluish tint when in contrast with tungsten-filament headlamps.

History

Xenon headlamps were introduced in 1991 as an option around the BMW 7-series. This first program utilized an unshielded, non-replaceable burner designated D1 - a designation that would be recycled years later to get a wholly various type of burner. The AC ballast was about the size of a building brick. The first American-made effort at HID headlamps was around the 1996-98 Lincoln Mark VIII, which utilized reflector headlamps with an unmasked, integral-ignitor burner made by Sylvania and designated Type 9500. This was the only system to operate on DC; reliability proved inferior towards the AC systems. The Kind 9500 program was not used on any other models, and was discontinued after Osram's takeover of Sylvania. All HID headlamps worldwide presently use the standardised AC-operated bulbs and ballasts.

Advantages

Elevated security

The HID headlamp gentle sources (bulbs) offer substantially greater luminance and luminous flux than halogen bulbs - about 3000 lumens and 90 mcd/m2 versus 1400 lumens and 30 mcd/m2. If the higher-output HID gentle source is used in a well-engineered headlamp optic, the driver gets more usable gentle. Studies have demonstrated drivers react quicker and much more accurately to roadway obstacles with good HID headlamps instead of halogen ones.[30] Hence, good HID headlamps contribute to driving security.[31] The contrary argument is that HID headlamps can negatively impact the vision of oncoming visitors because of their high depth and "flashing" impact due towards the rapid transition between low and high illumination within the field of illumination, thus growing the risk of a head-on collision between the HID-enabled vehicle and a blinded oncoming driver.

Efficacy and output

HID burners give higher efficacy (produce much more light from less power) than halogen bulbs. The highest-intensity halogen headlamp bulbs, H9 and HIR1, produce 2100 to 2530 lumens from roughly 70 watts at 13.2 volts. A D2S Enshrouded burner generates 3200 lumens from roughly 42 watts during stable operation. The reduced energy consumption indicates much less fuel usage, with resultant much less CO2 emission per vehicle fitted with Hid lighting (1.3 g/km assuming that 30% of engine running time is with the lights on).

Longevity

The approximate avg. service life of an HID lamp is 2000 hours, in contrast to in between 450 and 1000 hours to get a halogen lamp.

Disadvantages

Glare

Lack of backward-compatibility

Price

Enshrouded headlamps are significantly more costly to produce, install, purchase, and repair. The additional cost of the Enshrouded lights might exceed the fuel cost savings through their decreased energy consumption, although some of this cost disadvantage is offset by the longer lifespan of the Hid burner relative to halogen bulbs.

The History of the HID Motorcycle Headlight

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How to Build Your First Custom Motorcycle

You have decided that you want to own a custom motorcycle, but you're not quite sure how or where to begin. There are a few things to think about before you start on your journey for that original, unique, or unusual motorcycle.

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First, do you want to fully build a custom motorcycle from the frame up, do you want to modify an existing bike, or order one already built to your specifications? What size bike are you thinking about? Large, small or in the middle? Do you want agility & speed, or do you just want to look good while you cruise the highway?  You will need to decide how much money you can afford to spend in the long run & whether your ownership plan will most likely take you weeks, months or even years to complete.

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Second, can you spare the time to do the customization/modification on your bike yourself, or do you have the resources to have the work done for you. If you are going to do your own work, (as do most of us) you'll need to consider what tools you will need, where your work space will be located, how much help from like-minded friends you're likely to get, and your level and variety of skills.  Last but not least, do you have the motivation and dedication to continue once you have started creating your own custom bike?

Third, how much work needs to be done on a bike to make it a custom motorcycle anyway?  This is a controversial argument.  Some say it is not a custom motorcycle, unless you change out basically everything on the bike and others say changing just a couple of things makes it custom. This is the logical answer; make it uniquely yours in any way you choose!  Build it, modify it, lighten it, strengthen it, downsize it, expand it, make it more agile, paint it, build it up, or strip it down, just make it yours!  If you have had it modified and it is no longer "stock", or you've modified it yourself, congratulations! You now own a custom motorcycle!

Fourth, get out there and ride!!

How to Build Your First Custom Motorcycle

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Motorcycle Riding - Best Braking Practices

First, let's consider what enables you to change anything about the speed and direction of your 'object in motion' - two small patches of tire and road surface rubbing together. These few square inches are responsible for creating enough friction to influence, or ideally, control the motion of the object riding on them. Dictionary.com defines traction as " the friction between a body and the surface on which it moves (as between an automobile tire and the road.)" What actually makes a bike come to a standstill? This process involves, first and foremost, the traction element described above, in combination with the friction developed in the braking system that tries to reduce the rate of spinning of the wheels (which are, we hope, bound to the road surface by the aforementioned traction.)

There are different types of braking systems. The most basic involves the front and rear brakes working completely independent from each other. (For the purpose of this discussion, we will not consider vintage bikes or early 'choppers' that lacked front brakes.) This typically involves controlling the front brakes via the right handlebar lever and the rear brakes via the right foot pedal. A second scheme is to have the front and rear brakes linked so that they always brake together. There have been several variations on this theme. A third scheme is ABS that uses a computer and wheel spin sensors to detect locking, then releases and reapplies the brakes rapidly to prevent skidding. Of course, this opens up the possibility of combining the technology of integrated braking with ABS. This has been implemented on some high-end touring machines (and possibly more); however, the implications of this combination are still being explored.

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Brake mechanisms, like brake systems, have also evolved. Disk brakes, which use a rotor fixed to the wheel in conjunction with a hydraulic caliper fixed to the suspension, have proven to be the most efficient and thus received the most evolutionary attention. With this system, one or more hydraulic cylinders in the caliper are used to squeeze the friction material 'in' against the sides of the rotor. Drum brakes, still used on some lighter bikes and/or for the sake of economy, are typically actuated by a mechanical rod or cable. This type of brake causes friction 'shoes' to be pressed outward against a drum - which is usually the hub of the wheel. Over the past 30 years I've experienced: front and rear drums, front disk/rear drum, front dual disk/rear single disk with partial integration, and currently non-integrated ABS (dual front/single disk rear). I believe that each iteration has represented a significant evolutionary step. Since each bike has been larger and heavier as well, the progression in stopping power has been welcome indeed.

Suspension and drive type also effects traction as well as the way the entire machine will respond to a given set of physical forces. The response of the suspension to the drive train (either accelerating or during engine braking) will be different on a shaft driven bike from that of a chain or belt driven machine. An engine whose crankshaft rotates on an axis that's perpendicular to the wheelbase of the bike will produce different gyroscopic forces from one that rotates on a parallel axis. There is so much diversity in motorcycle design today that we cannot hope to cover all the subtle nuances of any particular type without hopelessly boring the more general reader to death. Instead, we'd like to offer some general guidelines, in the hopes of stimulating your thought process and encouraging you to become more attuned to your particular machine and its interaction with the world of the open road.

An object in motion tends to stay in motion. We learned this in school. When you apply your brakes, the bike, cargo, and riders want to keep moving forward. This means that the total weight starts to shift forward as you brake, which in turn, wants to lift the rear wheel effectively reducing its contact area, while pushing the front tire hard into the road surface. Realizing this, it only makes sense that as stated by the Motorcycle Safety Foundation, (MSF), your front brake has 70%+ of your braking power and you should use your front brake every time that you want to slow down. In addition, the MSF recommends that you to use both front and rear brakes, and if necessary, apply them both hard, without locking them up. Do not stiffen your arms as you brake, just grip the bike with your legs and keep your arms free and relaxed. This is one of those "easier said than done" situations and you do need to practice.

Now, before I go off on a tear about panic braking and avoiding the dreaded and possibly lethal 'high-side,' my inner parent will not rest without at least a passing mention of 'Best Defensive Riding Tactics' as a precursor to 'Best Braking Practices.' Unless you have a death wish, a good deal of your concentration while riding should be dedicated to avoiding panic braking situations. (The proverbial "...ounce of prevention...") Try to avoid heavy traffic, have at least two escape routes in mind at any given instant, don't drive faster than a 12 second line-of-sight, brake before curves, and learn to brake while in curves without loosing control of the bike, you know, all that MSF stuff. You don't know, or maybe you did but it's been quite awhile? Maybe you should consider taking a course - what the heck, the worst that could happen is that you might learn something and you'll save some money on insurance. At best, it could save your life! (Or mine, if I'm anywhere near you.)

If these mentions don't sound very familiar, or even automatic, to you, please at the very least spend some time reading about, thinking about, and finally, practicing these defensive tactics when they aren't especially critical until they become automatic. By its very definition a 'panic' situation is one where you literally don't have time to think and your 'automatic' reaction can absolutely make a life-or-death difference.

Progressive braking:

This sounds like common sense, especially if you are traveling in a straight line, but the process becomes much less intuitive when you are in a curve and/or panic situation. The idea here is to apply both brakes with 'progressively' more pressure until an acceptable deceleration rate is obtained. If you are in a particularly relaxed braking situation, such as approaching a red light or rolling down a deceleration lane toward an exit ramp, you can also mix in a little engine braking via downshifting. This transfers some of the wear and tear caused by the deceleration forces from the braking system to the driveline, and it sounds cool. I've seen arguments for and against engine braking but they really lie outside the scope of this discussion, I'm neither advocating nor condemning the practice.

It is true that the 'driveline' was designed for 'driving' and the braking system was designed for braking, and the latter of those two is the intended point of this article.

Leaned over in a curve:

The best practice is to decelerate sufficiently before entering a curve to allow continuous acceleration through and out of it. Well, that's just wonderful in theory, but unless you're on a closed racing circuit, a road that you've ridden hundreds of times before, or you consistently drive like the proverbial 'little old lady,' you've probably found yourself in a little over your head on at least a few occasions. Although I would hardly recommend it as a best practice, it is entirely possible to brake in a curve. I would suggest that you practice it when you don't need it so you're prepared in the event that you do. The suspension and drive characteristics of your specific machine will play a part here as well, so you might want to seek the advice of competitive or highly experienced riders of similar equipment. Key to all flavors of bikes is to avoid sudden or violent transitions - either on and off the throttle, brakes, or from throttle to brake, or brake to throttle. Back off the throttle gently and apply brakes gently and progressively.

If you find yourself going into a skid while leaned over in a curve and braking, you will probably be destined for a 'low side' before you have a chance for any sort of intervention. The same policy stated below applies for a locked rear wheel - force it down on the low side with the front brake if you have to but - DO NOT RELEASE THE REAR BRAKE! (See below for the gory details.)

Traveling in a straight line:

In the best of all possible worlds, when you are traveling in a straight line, you may be able to anticipate the need to slow down or stop (i.e. approaching a red light) and entirely minimize your need for aggressive braking by easing off the throttle and letting the bike do what comes naturally. Be careful, however, not to surprise following motorists (especially the ones in large SUVs) by slowing abruptly without displaying your brake lights - as might occur with downshifting for the purpose of engine braking.

When the need for deceleration becomes more urgent, due to changing traffic conditions or the need to slow down for a curve, you are in prime territory for 'progressive braking.'

If you jam on your front brakes, you could start a skid that will cause you to depart from your bike as your wheel slides out from under you. Your front wheel will not lock up easily if you have ABS brakes, or if you have mastered the progressive braking, but this can happen fairly easily (and VERY quickly) at low speed if you encounter a manhole cover, steel plate, or other slick surface. If you start to skid on the front wheel, release the brake momentarily and reapply it using less pressure. The bike will turn in the direction of the skid by itself. In the very low speed situation, and only as a last resort, putting a foot down may enable you to catch the bike before it passes that critical point. More than likely, however, this will happen so fast that you'd be best advised to try and get away rather than risk a foot, a knee, or being caught under the weight of the beast.

If you jam on your back brakes, you have a greater chance of locking the rear wheel, because it has less contact with the road surface as the weight shifts forward. If you start to skid with your rear wheel things will begin to happen very quickly and you are now in one of the most dangerous positions you can imagine. The best advice that anyone can offer is - DO NOT RELEASE THE BRAKE! Look forward and steer straight. If you are going in a straight line, you will (hopefully) skid straight and you can apply the front brake to achieve the stop that you need.

Consider for a moment, from the comfort and security of your desk chair, some of the dynamics that are involved here and if we're fortunate, we may never have to experience them from the saddle:

1) Once the rear wheel locks it will have less traction than the front wheel, which is still turning. Also any gyroscopic forces from the rear wheel (which would tend to help keep the bike upright) are gone.

2) With the combination of the forward weight shift and the lack of traction at the rear wheel the net effect is that the back of the bike wants to go faster than the front.

3) Due to the conditions described above, you are likely to find your rear wheel sliding up along side of you. Your front wheel, pointing straight ahead, will naturally be turned into the skid. From here there are basically three ways that things can go:

a) You ride it out with the rear wheel locked, steering into the skid with the front wheel and maintaining pressure on the front brakes. Easing up on the front brake slightly should allow the front wheel to get back ahead of the rear wheel somewhat while increasing pressure on the front brake will tend to let the back wheel get further ahead, eventually forcing the bike down on the 'low side.' (the side of the bike closest to the ground and opposite the skid)

b) Disaster is imminent and you want to do everything possible to avoid a 'high side.' (See c below) Apply hard pressure on the front brake, which will slow the front of the bike even more. The rear wheel will move further ahead and you will effectively force the bike down on the 'low side.' If you go down, you will go down in the same direction as the bike and it will travel away from you. If you have the proper protective clothing you will probably not be hurt severely. Your bike may have the most damage.

c) The 'high side.' This is the worst possible case and also why you should NOT release the rear brake once it locks. Your rear wheel is locked and sliding up next to you. Your front wheel is still turning, in the direction of the skid, which is now at a considerable angle to the line of the bike. For whatever reason, you let up on the rear brake...

Immediately when the wheel starts turning it gains a considerable amount of traction, but the friction surface and direction of rotation are essentially sideways with respect to the direction of the slide. In addition, the front axle can form a pivot point in the direction of the slide, augmented by the application of the front brakes. The net effect is that the rear wheel digs in very abruptly while the momentum of the slide combines with the trajectory of the front wheel causing the entire bike to snap violently up and over the newly created friction surface at the back wheel. This violent snap is usually more than sufficient to launch the unfortunate rider equally violently in the direction of the slide. To make matters worse, the bike is also likely to become airborne at close to the same instant, velocity and direction. Once airborne, with nothing to slow it down... you can paint your own picture, but color it potentially deadly.

When you are faced with an emergency situation, your instinct is to brake hard. Only insight, conditioning, and practice can prepare you to react the most effectively under pressure or panic circumstances.

Motorcycle Riding - Best Braking Practices

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Custom Motorcycle Kickstands

There is nothing more heartbreaking to see, than a beautiful new custom motorcycle, with an expensive paint job, laying over on its side in a parking lot because the kickstand failed. If you're like most motorcycle owners, that little bugger is probably one of the least thought about components you'll install on your bike. Yet... it's the component keeping your months... or years... of hard work and piles of hard earned cash from crashing into the ground!

It doesn't matter little or how much you ride, it's never a bad idea to do a visual inspection on the various components on your bike before you go blasting down the road. That quick little once over can alert you to a lot of potential problems such as, oil leaks, loose nuts and bolts with parts ready to fall off, the condition of your tires, etc. Heck, it doesn't hurt to check your fluid levels while you're doing this quick inspection. With that being said, probably the one component that gets overlooked the most during these checks is the kickstand. What can screw up on a simple kickstand you ask? Let's take a look at what can happen.

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First of all, the most conspicuous thing that can malfunction on this component is an old or damaged lock spring. With a kickstand in this condition, there are a couple of incidents that have possibilities. 1. You can end up scraping it on the asphalt as you're riding which can present a potentially dangerous situation . Or... 2. It won't engage into a secure position when you kick it down to park your bike and jump off. And you can bet the later will happen when you pull up in front of a crowd of people at the local watering hole.

The kickstand really is something you want to pay attention to when you are doing any maintenance, cleaning or whatever. It only takes a second to move it to the full forward position and make sure it locks in properly. Like many other components on your bike, it has moving parts that over a period of time get loose and do wear out.

OK. Let's say your kickstand is brand new or you are about to purchase a new one. Here's some things you should consider. First off, when you are buying this component for your either your bike building project, or replacing the old one, make sure you get one that will work for your particular application. Not too long where you have to tip the bike way over to the right to get it down and locked in. And, not too short so that when you do lay your bike over, it's leaning so heavy to the left, you can't be sure the bike is going to be upright when you get back to it.

And here's something else some people just don't get. DO NOT depend on your kickstand unless you're parked on firm and stable ground. I'm sure you realize sand and grass don't fit that description, but... neither does asphalt when the mercury starts to soar during the summer months. Placing some sort of "foot" under your kickstand helps stabilize the area you're parked on to prevent your bike from crashing into the ground.

To wrap it up, don't take the kickstand component lightly even though it may not seem that significant.

Custom Motorcycle Kickstands

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The "Break-In" Process For a New American V-Twin Motorcycle

There's a reason new motors are 'tight" and not as responsive as ones that have had several miles put on them and that's because all the moving parts haven't "broken-in" yet. Friction is a key factor in a new motor because of how tight everything fits together and with a high amount of friction, you end up with a loss of power.

A new motor will actually work against itself until all the internal moving parts develop the wear pattern of least resistance. Because of the tight fits of the components there's friction and friction produces heat, which in turn causes the motor to expand which causes the parts to work against each other instead of functioning in a smooth uniform way.

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If you've just bought a new motorcycle or have installed a new motor in the one you currently own, if you start running it real hard without going through the "break-in" process, you will cause the engine to produce excess amounts of friction and heat, the number one enemy of an air cooled engine. These two elements will shorten the life of all the moving parts inside the motor and end up producing a significant amount of metal filings and grindings within the motor and that's not a good thing.

This is the reason that someone who has taken a brand new engine and rides the crap out of it may initially experience better performance than someone who takes the time to follow a proper break-in process because the carefully broken in motor is still developing a minimum resistance wear pattern.

So which motor will last longer? Which one is faster? A correctly ridden V-Twin custom motorcycle or Harley Davidson really doesn't get completely broken in until somewhere between 5,000 and 10,000 miles. At that point, you'll start to notice your bike will pick up speed and power because the friction on the internal parts has been gradually and carefully reduced as much as possible setting the stage for a long lasting motor.

On the other hand, the motor that has been run hard will still be running good and loose, but you can bet components such as piston rings to cylinder walls and valve to valve seat fitment is going to be aging well before its time and this will cause less compression which will affect the performance. It may not happen at 10,000 miles or even 20,000 miles, but it will happen much sooner that a properly broken-in motor.

You probably know the general rule of thumb is to ride a new motorcycle or new engine replacement at least 500 miles for the initial break-in. But the break-in process can actually happen in as little as 100 miles or as much as 800 miles depending on the metallurgy of the internal components, the type of oil used and what your riding habits are.

If you ride your motorcycle at a constant speed during the break in period, it'll cause the rings to glaze and lose their sealing qualities. What you should do is slowly increase and decrease the revs as you go through the gears. It takes some patience to do this for 500 miles, but it will work out for you much better in the long run.

Another thing you want to try to avoid is letting a new motor sit and idle especially on a hot day. Keep in mind that the V-twin motor is air-cooled and with all the excess heat being generated from the break in of new components, you need to keep air flowing over those cooling fins. If you live in an area where it's real hot you may want to consider night riding for your break in period. The key thing is to just use some common sense in how you treat your bike. Take care of it and it will take care of you!

The "Break-In" Process For a New American V-Twin Motorcycle

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Getting Your Motorcycle Ready For the Upcoming Riding Season

It's getting close to the time of year when we all start looking forward to the upcoming riding season that's just around the corner. So if you live in an area where you've had to store your bike for the winter, it's time to start thinking about getting it ready to go.

Even if you live in an area where you don't have to "mothball' your bike for several months, it's a good idea to run through a checklist of things that will help prevent problems and keep your riding time hassle free.

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Basically, at the start of every riding season you want to do is the same stuff that's required on a 500-mile service. All the fluids should be drained with new added including your front end and brake master cylinders. When you check your brake fluid, if it looks old, thick and brown, it's time to replace it.

By addressing all of the items included in a 500-mile service procedure, this will give you the opportunity to get reacquainted with your motorcycle and put you in a position to check all the little things you might otherwise overlook. Obviously, the more you stay on top of your maintaining motorcycle, the more you stay away from the repairs that can end up costing big bucks!

Gas Tank and Air Filter: If you haven't ridden your bike for several months and you didn't take the time to drain the fuel out of the gas tank and carburetor float bowl, drain out the old fuel and put some fresh gas in before you fire it up. Don't start a motor up with fuel that's been sitting around all winter. You may want to also consider replacing the fuel line and filter because it's been sitting around with "stale" gasoline in it and more than likely is a problem waiting to happen. Besides, a new piece of fuel line is pretty cheap insurance.

While you are inspecting the carburetor and the other fuel system components, it's a good time to clean up the air filter area and check the air filter element. It should be removed and cleaned up or replaced especially if some form of life decided to move in for the winter make it a home.

Fluids: No matter what, the engine oil needs to be drained and replaced along with installing a new oil filter specific to your model motorcycle. When checking the oil levels on FLT and Dyna model motorcycles, don't forget that they need to be sitting over on the kickstand. The other models need to be sitting up straight.

Remove the transmission drain plug and drain out the transmission fluid. Make sure that you clean up the magnetic plug before you reinstall it, replace the O-ring and then pour in the proper amount of transmission fluid. Remember when you are checking the fluid level in the transmission to keep the bike sitting up straight.

One of the more important things that needs your attention is the battery. If the battery is older than 2 years, and you have not had it hooked up to some sort of battery maintainer, don't even screw around just replace it! You can bet when you least expect it (especially in the heat of summer) that bugger will let you down.

While you are doing all of this service work, it doesn't hurt to throw in a set of new spark plugs. Check the gap and adjust them as necessary, put a little anti-seize on the threads and DO NOT over torque them. Take a look at the plug wires and clean up the boots real good or replace them if they're starting to look heavily worn.

Cables and Belts: Check the clutch cable for free travel and lube the pivot pin and the cable. The cables should be removed and cleaned up real good at least once a year, but if you've stayed on top of maintaining them, you probably don't need to. The same things go for your throttle cables and remember to use the proper product for this application. Do NOT use WD 40!

Do a real good visual inspection on your drive belt. Make sure the alignment is correct and that you've got proper adjustment while keeping an eye out for any holes or fraying of the belt. This could lead to some problems down the road that will more than likely happen in the most off the wall places and I can tell you from experience, there is no easy roadside fix for a broken drive belt.

If you're like most riders, you've probably never changed your fork oil. To get the best performance out a front end, the fluid should changed once a year regardless of what kind of miles you put on the bike. Also don't think if you're running a Springer you can simply ignore any sort of front-end maintenance. There are several items that need to be inspected and maintained on them, so check your manufacturers service manual.

After you've gone through all of these items, start the engine and let it warm up nice and easy with out revving it up. If you own an earlier model Evo, you may experience oil running out of the breather tube when you first start it up, but don't get shook up because this can happen if the bike has been sitting around for a while. The oil will bleed down into the bottom end and when you start the bike up, that oil will get pushed out the breather tube.

After the bike is all warmed up, check the idle speed and do whatever adjustment is necessary. Check the kill switch to make sure it's working ok and you should be set on all the basic stuff. Also, it doesn't hurt to change the engine oil and filter again after you run it about 500 miles.

Addressing these basic items can really save you a lot headaches while on the road and help insure a hassle free riding season.

Getting Your Motorcycle Ready For the Upcoming Riding Season

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How to Prepare Your Custom Motorcycle Components For Powdercoating

After completing the mock-up phase of a custom bike-building project, many custom motorcycle builders send their frame... or even possibly some of their sheet metal components out for powder coating.

Essentially, powder coating is a thin durable, oven-baked plastic coating. And, after it's applied, does not require any further finishing like paint does. It's also a lot stronger than paint so it will resist road dings.

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There are some techniques you may want to consider for prepping your components before sending them out. But, first, there are a few situations where powder coating might not be the way to go.

Take a gas tank or fender for instance. If those components have been filled with "putty" or some other kind of plastic fillers or compounds, you can not use the powder coating process. The reason is, all that filler stuff is going to melt in the curing oven. So you need to keep that in mind if you're thinking about doing your fenders or tank or any other sheet metal parts.

Prepping Your Components For The Powder Coating Process:

Specifically, what we're talking about here is your frame. So, the first thing that will need your attention is making sure you've removed any bearings, races or bushings from the neck and swing arm etc. And, you have to make sure you remove any other components that may be attached to the frame because the powder coating cannot get in between any of those parts that haven't been removed.

Once you've got everything all pulled apart, any old finish... or any other kind of crap on the parts that are to get powder coated, needs to be cleaned up. You may want to consider doing the prep work yourself to save some time and money, and there's nothing wrong with that. But, keep in mind, you want to do a good complete job with this procedure because good prep work is what separates a quality powder job from one that sucks... and prep work is what separates a "real" powder coating shop from the pretenders.

There's a few ways of getting the metal ready and they include sand blasting, glass beading, using a wire wheel and chemical stripping. A few thoughts on sandblasting...

This process has a tendency to leave a "profile" on the metal. That's when the force of sand removing finite pieces of metal creates a series of valleys and peaks. If you were blasting your heads or barrels, sand blasting really wouldn't be a problem due to all the imperfections in those parts anyway... plus there are no flat surfaces.

After sand blasting a frame, you may want to take a piece of medium to fine grit sandpaper, to smooth out the surface and break down any "profiles" caused by the process. Keep in mind that too much blast material or too much air pressure can easily damage any "thin areas".

Glass bead is probably the more preferred method because of its less aggressive nature and will leave your metal surface a whole lot smoother. But, if the surface you're trying to clean up has some real caked on crud, sand blasting is probably the best choice.

Now that you've decided which method you're going to use, you'll need to mask off the areas... such as bearing races... with duct tape so those surfaces don't get all chewed up when you do your blasting.

Simply lay the tape down on the area you want to protect then take a razor blade and cut the excess off. Double check to make sure any... and all... holes are sealed also. Take your time with the blasting and work it slow and methodically.

Don't Forget About Those Thin Areas!

After you've got your blasting done... give all the surfaces a shot of compressed air and then remove the duct tape. Shoot all the pieces again with some air and pay special attention to small holes and threaded areas. Check it over real good and if you find any chunks of old finish you might have missed (like up in a tight corner) use a wire wheel in a drill to get rid of it.

Here's a little tip... try to stay away from chemical stripping. If chemical residue gets trapped in a hole or a small crack, it then becomes a contaminant and can screw-up your finished powder coat job.

A quality powder coat job can really make the difference in how your finished custom motorcycle or Chopper shows.

How to Prepare Your Custom Motorcycle Components For Powdercoating

PRICE CHOPPER APPLICATION

Preparing Your Chopper Motorcycle For Painting

After buying you custom painting manual guide, tools, paint and equipments, the next job is to dismantle the motorcycle. Start dismantling your chopper motorcycle with utmost accuracy. While dismantling the chopper motorcycle, you should be very careful with wires attached to the motorcycle.

chopper rolling chassis

Dismantling chopper motorcycle is not very difficult, if you do it according to the custom painting manual guide. Remove only those parts from motorcycle, which you want to re-paint, as most of the people remove each and every part from the motorcycle and find it difficult to assemble it later. You should remember while dismantling your chopper motorcycle, that you have to assemble it. By using the basic tools kit, you can easily dismantle or assemble your chopper motorcycle. You should collect all the big or small parts of your chopper motorcycle very carefully at the time of dismantling your motorcycle.

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Sanding

Sanding is done to remove the old paint from the dismantled parts of chopper motorcycle and to give smooth and silky surface to paint. The process of sanding is done by using sand papers. Generally, there are two types of sand paper used in sanding process of motorcycles, first is rough sandpaper and second is fine sandpaper. Rough sandpaper is used to remove the old paint from the motorcycle and fine sandpaper is used to give smooth surface for the new paint. If the old paint is remain on the motorcycle then it might cause problem with the new paint. Therefore, sanding is very important before you start painting your chopper motorcycle. Never try to avoid sanding because it is very important for the long lasting shine and grace of new paint.

Sanding Your Chopper Motorcycle

Sanding a motorcycle doesn't need any specialized knowledge or skill. You must be careful while choosing the correct thickness of the sand paper (rough sandpaper and fine sandpaper). Sand papers with grit form 600 to 1000 can be used, depending upon the roughness of your chopper motorcycle. 600 grit sand papers are used for the rough surface i.e. to remove the old paint. 1000 grit sand papers are used for fine finishing of the motorcycle.

Although sanding is not a specialized job, but you have to be expert in judging the smoothness of the surface on which you are going to paint. When you are going for motorcycle sanding, you should be well prepared, as the people who perform such jobs are regularly exposed to dust (powder of old paint). Chances of getting dust in the eye and throat are very common. Therefore, your must wear the safety equipments. Swallowing these powders sometimes might leads to lung cancer.

For the final finishing of your chopper motorcycle, it is recommended to use 200 grit sanding paper. Smooth and sparkling surface of the motorcycle is the reward of proper sanding. Use 1200 grit wet and dry sand paper if you want to paint a metallic color on your chopper motorcycle.

Chemical Stripper for Sanding

If you find it difficult to remove the old paint of your motorcycle with a sand paper, then you can also use chemical stripper. Apply the paint stripper very carefully all over the motorcycle with a paint brush.

Chemical stripper can affect your skin badly. Therefore, you must wear safety equipments while applying chemical stripper on your chopper motorcycle.

How to Apply Chemical Stripper

You should cover all the parts of your motorcycle, which you want to paint, with clear plastic sheet (available from any hardware shop), so the vapors will be trapped inside and will work more rapidly on the motorcycle. After covering the motorcycle parts with the plastic sheet, than wait for the 2 to 3 hours and remove the plastic sheet.

Now you can start to scrape off the old paint from the motorcycle with a putty knife or a paint scraper. After applying stripping chemical on the motorcycle parts and keep the water away from these parts. If necessary, use the stripping chemical again. Never use the chemical stripper to remove the old paint from the motorcycle part, as it can affect the body (metal) of your chopper motorcycle. Therefore, sanding by sand paper is the best and simple way to remove old paint from motorcycle.

Wash the Parts before You Start Painting

After the sanding process, wash each and every part. Washing is necessary and important to remove the sanding powder which is left after the sanding process. There are some people who jump from sanding directly on to the base coat and might suffer later, as if you start with base coating without washing it, then after completing the first base coat, you will find small particles on it. Therefore, wash gently all the parts before you start painting.

For washing purpose, you can use any common soap or dishwashing detergents which are commonly available in the market. You can also use a scrub or a hard brush with these soap or detergent. A scrub or a hard brush will also remove the old paint left during the sanding process. You can also use cleaner to wash motorcycle, but never use any strong and chemically reacting cleaner which can damage the body (metal) of your chopper motorcycle by starting the rusting process. These types of chemical cleaners contain a chemical irritant which is known as Ethylene Glycol Monobutyl Ether. Therefore, it is recommended to use common soap or dishwashing detergent to wash your chopper motorcycle before painting.

Preparing Your Chopper Motorcycle For Painting

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Motorcycle And Chopper Painting Tutorial

PAINT AND PREP SUPPLIES

chopper rolling chassis

Reducer

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Plastic Filler

Finishing Putty

Primer and hardeners

Epoxy Sealer

Paint for Base Color

Clear Coat/Hardener

80,120,400,600,1500,2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper

EASY SPRAY BOOTH

If you're like me, you don't have the luxury of a down-draft spray booth in your garage. Here's what I did. I cleaned out a storage area that's attached to the rear of my garage. I covered the walls with white poly, and installed a multi speed fan in the window. I then went around with a roll of insulation tape and sealed the edge of the fan to the surrounding poly on the walls. Now onto lighting. After the first time you attempt to paint anything, you'll quickly realize just how important a well lit paint area is. In fact when it comes to lighting, the brighter your booth the better. A friend of mine gave me two four-tube florescent light fixtures, which I hung on opposite sides of my new spray booth. It's good to have reflective walls. Lining the walls with white poly not only saves your walls, but it's also quite reflective.

SAFETY

Before I go any further, I want to stress safety. It's a very bad I idea to paint in a room that's attached to your home. In fact, it may not be legal in some municipalities. Also, paint fumes are not only super toxic, they're highly flammable. Make sure your lights are wired properly, and that your fixtures are fully encased with lens covers attached. Last but not least, make sure you have a good quality respirator with the correct filters for the type of paint you're using.

PAINT EQUIPMENT

For tools you'll need at least two spray guns, an air regulator with a water filter, a compressor, and of course some air hose. As fore mentioned, you'll need 2 paint guns... one for painting primer, and another for painting base and clear coats.

PREP FOR PAINT

Make certain your fuel and oil tanks are pressure tested and leak free before you start. Ideally, it's good to sandblast your metal parts, especially if they have old paint on them. If you decide not to sandblast, make sure to sand them really thoroughly and wipe them down with a non oil-based degreaser prior to starting the job.

The next step is to add filler to the low spots and any trouble areas. It's a matter of personal preference, but I like to apply a coat of epoxy primer prior to spraying on the base coat. This provides a nice base for the filler to adhere to. prepare your filler in small amounts (it hardens fast) and apply it smoothly and evenly onto your work piece.

After the filler has stiffened, sand it smooth with 80 grit and look it over for any low spots or nicks, then fill and sand again. After the necessary rounds of filler and sanding are finished, it's time to spray on the primer.

Lay down a couple of coats of epoxy primer. After the primer has dried, get a spray can of black paint and very lightly spray it over your work piece. This is the guide coat. The thin black spray will show any waves, low spots or defects in your prep work. To fix the trouble areas that the guide coat exposed, you'll want to use flowable putty instead of filler. Apply the putty in thin even coats, then smooth it down with 80 grit sandpaper (wrapped around a rubber sanding pad). Once you get the high spots sanded down, smooth it down even further with 120 grit, then finishing it with 400 grit. You are now ready for a final round of primer. Once the primer is dry, sand it thoroughly with 400 grit to provide a toothy surface for the base coat to adhere to. I like to spray on a coat of epoxy sealer just prior to applying the base colour coat. In addition to providing a really nice surface for applying the base color, it also prevents any solvents from popping through and forming bubbles in your clear coat. Make sure to follow the paint manufacturers specification sheets with regards to mixing times, mixing ratios and painting temperature. Not following the instructions will cause you much grief...trust me.

BASE COAT/CLEAR COAT

Time for the color coat. Spray on the color coats as per your paint manufacturer's spec sheet. Now comes the clear. After the first round of clear is dry, wet sand it down with 600 grit. You'll notice rows of ridges appear in the clear as you sand. Continue until the clear is even and the ridges are gone. If you are painting graphics on, now is the time to do it. After applying your graphics, cover them with another round of clear. It may take two or more rounds of clear to completely bury the graphics. Be sure to wet sand flat with 600 grit between rounds of clear. After the last round of clear has been sprayed, sand it down flat with 600 grit as before. When it's nice and smooth, finish it off with 1500 grit. If you want to get it crazy smooth, go for a final session of 2000 grit.

POLISHING

Now for the gratifying part. The final step is to polish it to a mirror finish. You'll need a multi speed polisher, a buffing pad, and some buffing compound. There are lots of different brands of buffing compound on the market. Your local auto body supply store will be able to recommend something.

Motorcycle And Chopper Painting Tutorial

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Why Not Using a Legit Motorcycle Appraisal Service Could Spell Disaster!

There's an old story you may or may not have heard called "The Emperor Has No Clothes". It's about A King who lost his mind and started wandering around the kingdom buck-naked. But, because he was King, no one was willing to tell him he was naked. In fact, they went out of their way to humor him and actually gave him compliments on his fine clothes.

Many times people, who have had long involvements with friends, suddenly find themselves at the end of that relationship and almost always, the reason is because they start hearing advice or information they don't like from the other party. And as a result, they'll move on to someone else who will either give them the advice they like or will simply tell them what they want to hear.

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So rather than risking the chance of destroying a longtime relationship, friends and associates many times are unwilling to say what they really think or feel, thus leaving you "walking around naked"!

It's helpful and useful to have someone close, who you can trust to tell you the truth. By trust I mean they have no agenda of their own. They are by nature, blunt and brutally honest along with being knowledgeable and successful. These people give you "just the facts" and this mannerism and type of behavior also applies to your custom built motorcycle as well.

Whether you have just finished building your own custom motorcycle or you just purchased a factory bike, and are seriously upgrading it, getting it appraised for proper insurance coverage is an absolute necessity to make sure you've got your investment properly protected!

Let's be realistic. If you want to ride, you've got to have motorcycle insurance. And, any insurance company that will even consider covering a one-off special construction motorcycle requires an approved appraisal!

As you know, there are no book prices on custom-built motorcycles and the actual cash value of a custom chopper can vary by substantial amounts of money based on the different types of components used in its construction.

Because of this, the motorcycle insurance underwriters require a qualified and accredited independent third party capable of producing an appraisal report detailing the construction of the bike and able to assign a value on it.

Here's the problem though. Any person or bike shop can hang up a sign saying they are appraisers and start producing "reports". And, if the report looks like it's official, some insurance companies may accept it without asking any questions.

So what's the big deal you ask? Okay let's think the unthinkable. Let's imagine you've parked your pride and joy in the parking lot of the local watering hole. And as you're getting ready to leave you discover that it's gone! But, you're thinking... "Fear Not, I have insurance to cover my loss". It's now time to play truth or consequences with your insurance company.

At this point your insurance company will begin to examine your appraisal with a microscope. If they feel that it is not detailed enough, the value seems high or there is a question about the legitimacy of the party that prepared it, you've got problems.

And the worse part is, if they discover that you got the appraisal from someplace like "Not-So-Swift Choppers" who is not qualified to do produce an appraisal document, chances are you are up the creek without a paddle!

The thing of it is, you can easily avoid being caught in that situation by using the services of a qualified, recognized and accepted appraisal source. Remember, after you've gone through the expensive and tedious process of building your own custom bike, unless you have a legal document from an accepted appraisal source stating the true value of your motorcycle, you are NOT going to get the insurance coverage you want and need leaving you flirting with disaster!

Why Not Using a Legit Motorcycle Appraisal Service Could Spell Disaster!

PRICE CHOPPER APPLICATION

Motorcycle Graphics Kits - Completing the Perfect Look For Your Bike

When building your own custom chopper, there is nothing better than looking at the finished piece and deciding what type of graphics you will want to use. Motorcycle graphics kits are designed to allow you to add your personal style to your chopper and make it look more creative than any other bike. Using graphics kits can really improve the look of your chopper and give you a greater feeling of accomplishment knowing the custom bike is really yours.

chopper frames

Generally, motorcycle graphics kits include an application squeegee, application instructions, decals and practice install decals. Kits are also made to fit any motorcycle and come in a variety of designs so there is something that is sure to fit the unique style of anyone. You can find a decal for almost anything from flames, tribal designs, lightning and even stars. All these designs can be found in different colors, so you will be able to fit your own style.

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As the interest in custom choppers increases, there is a need for graphics to set bikes apart from one another. The graphics kits themselves, have come a long way. Today, you can plan your decal and style over the Internet before actually purchasing it to make sure it is what you want. Decals have also been created in a variety of sizes to fit even pocket motorcycles. Graphics are also available in paint mask form so you can create perfect designs for any size.

It is important to know when you look for the perfect graphics kit that you understand not all kits are the same and they do not offer the same graphics, colors or bonuses. You will want to try to find graphics kits that include decals that reflect your style and will allow you to create the custom bike you dream of. Many times with kits the company will offer custom graphics for special orders and so you can ensure your bike will be one of a kind.

As with any decal on a bike, color is very important and motorcycle graphics kits can help create the perfect color for your bike. Many companies offer colors that are created specifically to blend well with your custom chopper. Colors such as purple chrome, diamond plate as well as many others and even custom colors can be added to you graphics kit.

When creating your custom chopper design can be everything. Apart from the technical parts, the only way to really make your custom chopper stand out is the design and the graphics you choose. Motorcycle graphics kits can help you create that perfect design with the perfect colors. Even if you are new to building your own custom bike a kit can help you to complete a bike that stands out from the crowd.

Motorcycle Graphics Kits - Completing the Perfect Look For Your Bike

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How To Paint Flames On Your Motorcycle Or Chopper

Beginners guide to painting hotrod flames.

chopper bicycle

Material and Supplies

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3/4 inch masking tape

Fine line 1/8 tape

600 and 1500 grit waterproof sandpaper

x-acto knife

orange and red paint for the flames

pre-cleaner

paint spray gun

airbrush

clearcoat

multi speed polisher

buffing compound

Flames or any other graphics should be painted on top of a clear coated base. Along with giving the overall paint job more depth, applying the artwork on top of the clear coat makes it possible to remove artwork with a rag and some thinner if you make a mistake.

Step 1:

With your 600 grit paper, thoroughly wet sand the clear coat on the surface you're about to paint.

Step 2:

With your fine line tape, lay out the shape of your flames, working from left to right. Push and pull the fine line tape into position with both hands working in unison. Pay close attention to the balance of the area to be painted, and the background (that will be masked). If it seems tricky, don't sweat it...you'll get the hang of it with a little practice.

Step 3:

After you've got the flames laid out with the fine line tape, burnish it down nice and tight to prevent the paint from creeping under the edge during painting. This is especially critical on the overlapping ends.

Once the fineline tape burnished down nice and snug, mask off the negative (background) areas with your 3/4 masking tape, carefully butting it against the edge of the fineline tape. Be careful not to leave any gaps between the masking tape and the fineline.

Step 4:

With the flames carefully laid out and masked, it's now time to spray some color.

Mix up some orange or yellow paint, and load it in your touch up gun. Apply a couple of thin even coats, just enough to cover. After the base color for your flames have dried, load up your airbrush and add some red highlights to the tips and outer edges of the flames.

Step 5:

After the paint has dried, gently remove the masking tape by pulling it at a low angle away from the fine line tape. Now remove the fineline tape using the same procedure. Take care not to peel up the edges of the fresh paint.

Step 6:

Clean off any residue left by the masking tape with a clean soft rag and some pre-cleaner product.

Step 7:

Time now to bury your flames under some clear. Apply as many coats of clear needed so that the edges of the flames can't be felt when you rub your hand over it (when it's dry of course). If you can feel the edges of the flames through the clear, you'll need to spray another round or two.

Step 8:

Once the clear has dried, wet sand it flat with 600 grit. Soon after you start sanding you'll notice ripples starting to appear in the clear. You'll know you're finished when the ripples disappear and the surface is nice and flat. After your finished with the 600 grit, wet sand it once more with 1500 or 2000 grit. At this point the clear will look hazy from wet sanding. Don't worry, that will all change after the next and final step.

Step 8:

The final step is to buff the clear coat to a mirror shine, using a multi speed polisher. Attach a foam buffing pad to the polisher, then load it up with some polishing compound. There are many different brands of polishing compounds on the market, your local auto body supply store will be able to recommend a good one. Keep the buffer moving back and forth letting the weight of the buffer do the work. Do not stay in one spot to long or you'll burn through the clear. Keep buffing until you've got a mirror-like finish.

How To Paint Flames On Your Motorcycle Or Chopper

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Essential Motorcycle Gear - Look Good And Stay Safe While Riding Your Motorcycle or Chopper

When riding a motorcycle there are some items you just should not go without.

chopper motorcycle

A helmet

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Bikers seem to lean toward being an independent bunch. You know, they don't seem to like to be told what they should do. Well, as you might expect, many bikers resent the helmet laws and especially the enforcement of helmet laws. Helmets might be somewhat uncomfortable and many people think helmets look stupid.

The government isn't wrong all the time especially about the helmet safety issue. And very little is more uncomfortable than knocking your head off the pavement. Not only that, you'll look even more stupid in the hospital with your head all bandaged up.

Get a helmet that fits

With the new kinds of synthetic materials scientists have discovered and new helmet engineering, helmets have become an engineering marvel. With their strong composite resin shells they really do help protect your head while they let you enjoy the feeling of looking cool - yes, even with a helmet. Various styles and types abound. From the full-face to the open-face and the flip-up, they all have their positive and negative attributes considering the type of biking you do.

You should be wearing a jacket, pants and boots along with your helmet since your head isn't the only part that will slam down on the pavement if the bike lays down. Yup, leather can be very hot and cause you to sweat, so find a clothing design for riding that gives wicking and/or excellent breathing materials and fits well.

Motorcycle jackets have moved way beyond just thick leather. Various composites along with mesh and you got to love this; even electric heating grids can be obtained. You must pay attention to fit since is important for a comfortable ride and it works hand in hand with safety. If you can't be free to move about you won't be able to control your bike properly. You should have no problem finding a style you like - there are many to choose from.

Leather riding pants are known to suffocate the lower half of your body and cramp you style by chafing your... essential gear. Protection is needed, but comfort is also required - try being uncomfortable for those long road trips. Kevlar Keprotec for the groin area and inner thighs are definitely worth looking into. Wicking mesh will help to keep you dry on the hot days you ride. Get waterproofing since you know you will always be getting caught out in the rain.

Motorcycle boots are a must. Any fool who rides in flip-flops, running shoes or dress shoes has never met the highway in a personal fashion and must not care much about their feet and ankles. The styles and the variety available in boots is larger than any of other motorcycle riding accessory.

First, what kind of motorcycle riding you like to do most. Maybe you will be in need of more than one pair of boots in the long run. The basic types of motorcycle boots are street, off-road and racing boots. Pick your type of boot with the type of riding you do in mind. Boots will be stiff, but you don't want rigid boots unless you doing some type of special riding and have a need for them, a need like professional racing.

The old-fashioned, basic, black leather motorcycle boot with rubber soles are definitely an option. Things really have changed since Brando played in the trendsetting biker movie, The Wild One, (based on a true story, in fact). Sure, they still do the job, but they are not your most comfortable choice, and they don't give the best foot and leg protection.

Features such as: Kevlar lining, boots that are easily removed by zippers or ski-boot style buckles, either short or upper-calf in height, and lined with the latest wicking mesh mean the boots today are as high-tech and functional as next year's car. Creature comfort and good fit are very important. Optional shin plates are good, but they are for racers that need that extra metal base plate. There are more colors are available in boots than Dennis Hopper saw on any of his acid trips. Choose a style that fits your personality.

That was a list of the basic protective gear, and there are a host of cool tools and motorcycle add-ons that will allow you to enjoy a ride that will be more comfortable and convenient. Get a trip computer or a Dick Tracy-style watch or handlebar attachment, saddlebags for carrying stuff, repair kits are good to have too... endless stuff. Many needed items are available as well as things just to make you feel good.

Essential Motorcycle Gear - Look Good And Stay Safe While Riding Your Motorcycle or Chopper

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Wax Coating Your Chopper Motorcycle

It is time to think of wax coating, once you are satisfied with the condition of the paint of your motorcycle, now start the wax coating. Wax coating helps to preserve the paint as it contains some oils which decrease the rust or oxidation. Wax coating also protects the paint of your chopper motorcycle from natural risks such as dung of the birds, sap from the tree, smog and the ultraviolet rays of the sun. Wax coating gives the strength, shiny finish and richness to the paint. Therefore wax coating is very essential.

chopper frames

There Are Three Different Types Of Waxes:

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1. Liquid Wax
2. Paste Wax
3. Spray Wax

The liquid wax coating is very easy, but commercial automotive liquid wax is not as durable as paste wax. You can choose a natural wax, such as Carnauba. Carnauba is a tree which is harvested in Brazil, and its leaves are used in wax. Wax with a high carnauba contents is the best. You can view the carnauba contents in any wax (liquid, paste and spray) by going though its label.

Avoid the use of spray wax coating on your motorcycle, as it is too thin as compare to liquid and paste waxes. It is recommended to have two medium applications of wax rather than a single heavy one. Rectangular applicators are quite better that round applicators kitchen sponge. If you are using regularly sponge to wax your chopper motorcycle's paint finish, then you are doing a right thing as it will improve the inherent beauty of the paint. It can protect the paint from the perils of the surroundings and regular riding, and keep your bike looking its best.

Wax coating is not only important, it is very necessary. Some people avoid wax coating and their finish will absolutely suffer from the neglect. Therefore, wax coating is very necessary.

Synthetic wax popularity is growing rapidly as a commercial automotive for motorcycles. Synthetic wax seals off the painted surface with a wall that can last for 9 months, with the very best blends. The synthetics are very clear and shine transparent, therefore it can also achieve a mock Carnauba shines.

Things to Keep in Mind while applying Wax Coating

Wax coating is done in similar way as the base and final coating, in a linear back and forward motion following the shape of the surface. This avoids print swirl marks into the finish.

You can use your fingers as the applicator to apply the wax on your chopper motorcycle. This will allow you to detect any clench or rough particles before you end your painting job.

Wash your hands with after applying wax coating.

During your painting job, always try to use approved cleaners and waxes. Non-approved cleaners may work very effectively for removing road tar but these are able to remove or dull the paint of your chopper motorcycle.

Avoid regular contact (rubbing) with any cloth or towel on your recently painted motorcycle.

We hope all the above information helps in the maintenance of your bike, watch out for more articles on looking after your Chopper Bike.

Wax Coating Your Chopper Motorcycle

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Complete Motorcycle Kits - Building a Chopper the Easy Way

If you are looking to create your own, unique chopper, complete motorcycle kits can be extremely beneficial to your project. Motorcycle kits can end up saving you quite a bit of money and time because they provide the convenience of having all necessary parts in one place. Building custom motorcycles has become increasingly popular and so, there is a greater demand for complete motorcycle kits.

chopper bike

Most kits are dedicated to providing you with all necessary components to build your dream custom bike on your own. If you chose to get parts separately or used, you will not have the satisfaction of knowing that all the parts are new and will work well together. Many times, ordering parts online or from a mechanic will force you to wait and you may not even get what you want. With kits all parts will be available as and when you need them.

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Motorcycle kits generally include all technical parts so you can build your custom bike. Parts such as the chassis, the engine and the wheels are all included, although, paint, decals and other parts related to the design will have to be purchased separately to add a touch of your personality to your custom bike. Mirrors and speedometers are also not included, but these items can usually be purchased for relatively low prices.

Many people who build their own custom bikes will advise you to buy parts used, however, although it may save you some money, you may not be making the best decision. Parts that you get from junkyards or sales may not work as well as new parts because they are too old. It is also impossible to know how old the part is, so you will not know how long it will last, or if it will even work with the rest of your bike.

You will want to make sure all of the parts are working correctly because it can affect your safety when building the bike as well as riding it. Using a kit is the best way to stay safe because you know where the parts are coming from and that they are brand new. If a part has been over used, it can actually endanger you. Many times, when building a custom from scratch, cutting corners to save money is not the best idea.

For those of us just getting into the hobby of building our own custom motorcycles or even experienced builders, a complete motorcycle kit can make the process go much smoother. Many of the complete kits come with detailed instructions so if this is your first time, you can still create the bike of your dreams. After you finish will all the technical parts, you can begin customising your bike and really make it your own.

Complete Motorcycle Kits - Building a Chopper the Easy Way

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Chrome Custom Motorcycle Wheels

Chrome custom motorcycle wheels are one of the top ways to make your bike totally original through customization. Installing chrome custom motorcycle wheels has been claimed to be the fastest and simplest way to customize a bike from the ground up. Many people can actually customize their wheels on their own while not even needing the assistance of any special tools. Customizing your motorcycle wheels with chrome will have every lady drooling and every other guy out there jealous.

There are plenty of places to find chrome wheels both on and off the web. When you are searching around for prices it's always a smart idea to start on the web. This is unless you want your wheels customized today with no need to wait for shipping. The other option is to look in store at all the local bike shops in your area. In less than a day you can find the perfect chrome to give yourself some nice looking custom motorcycle wheels.

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There are many other ways to get custom motorcycle wheels onto your bike. Many bigger customizations to your tires will need a lot of extra time in order to strip down the bike and make the customizations you have always wanted. Though, this will always be worth it in the end. Each individual way to put custom motorcycle wheels onto your bike will have a different price, install time and of course style. Though, once you figure out how you want to customize the wheels on your bike there will be no going back.

Be sure to right down all specifications of your tires so when you find a style you like, you won't have to come back due to any size problems. Many safety precautions should be taken as well when customizing any piece of your motorcycle. Be sure to keep all dry pieces dry, lubricated pieces lubricated and of course and bolted piece...bolted. Getting custom motorcycle wheels on your bike will never proceed to be to complicated of a problem.

Chrome Custom Motorcycle Wheels

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Ways to Get Your Chopper Motorcycle Painted

Shop That Specializes In Painting of Chopper Motorcycles

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The first way is to find a shop that specializes in painting of motorcycles. The first way is very easy but it is quite expensive. There are various shops which engaged in painting motorcycles. You will also find these types of shops on internet. In these types of painting shops, you will get a wide range of latest and hottest designs to suit anyone's taste. There designs ranges from single color to multi color paintings with extra graphical effect.

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Painting Your bike Yourself at Home

Self painting is not a bad idea. You can paint your motorcycle at home. Self-painting is very economical but quite difficult and can be a hassle for you. Painting your bike at home is quite difficult but not impossible. You can paint at home if you have some knowledge about painting, art, designs etc. but their might be some question in your mind before you start painting, like how to use the paint, tools required, what should be the designs, how much you should spend on the whole project.

Following are the important steps that guide you to paint your chopper motorcycle.

These steps contain all the basic as well as technical information which is required to paint the bike at home. Painting your motorcycle is not very difficult. You can easily paint it by yourself, if you follow these steps.

Steps

1. Buy a custom painting manual guide
2. Buying basic tools
3. Dismantle your chopper motorcycle
4. Sanding
5. Washing the parts before you start painting
6. Base coat
7. Final coating
8. Dry out the paint
9. Painting the helmet
10. Problems after final coating and drying
11. Drawing latest and hottest designs on your chopper motorcycle
12. Wax coating
13. Assemble your chopper motorcycle
14. Washing your chopper motorcycle after assembling
15. Remove the paint from the engine
16. Polishing

We hope all the above information is helpful, watch out for our other articles

Ways to Get Your Chopper Motorcycle Painted

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Painting Your Chopper Motorcycle

PROFESSIONAL AIR BRUSH KIT

chopper bicycle

Professional air brush kit is the most basic tool which is required to paint a chopper motorcycle. It sprays enamels lacquers inks and other liquids, which operate on fifteento fifty pounds per square inch pressure. It is an internal combine air brush with twin action trigger, which gives only single finger control of air-flow and pattern width. To assure more uniform coverage, an internal combine air brush is used. By using it, you can paint each and every part of your chopper motorcycles as its pattern adjusts from fine line 1/16 inches to broad 1-1/2 inches. It can easily used with the help of compressor or carbon dioxide tank. Air brush with 1/4 - oz. ink (paint) jar, one 2 - oz. jar and two 3/4 - oz. ink (paint) jars with covers, for detail work one ink (paint) tip is also included in professional air brush kit.PAINT STRIPING TOOL

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Paint striping tool is used to paint the dges of a chopper motorcycle. With the help of paint striping tool, you can easily paints a single line or two parallel lines at same time. It can also be used to make latest and hottest designs on your chopper motorcycle.

Making your own custom designs can be proved very valuable as it is different from the various designs which are easily available in the market. Six striping wheels (two 1/16 inches two 1/32 inches one 3/32 inches and one 1/4 inches), four spacers (two 1/16 inches one 1-32 inches and one 3/32 inches), additional washer, storage tray, two 1/2 - oz. jars, instructions and idea booklet are also included in this tool kit.

GRAVITY FEED AIR SPRAY GUN

Gravity feed air spray gun is very fast as compare to any other spray gun available in the market. Gravity feed air spray gun kit is the best spray gun as it includes additional nozzle, air cap, and separate needle sets. For more efficient ink (paint)flow, better control and easier maneuvering overhead cup is included in the kit. The removable air regulator is used to controls the air pressure and allows the user to use the ink (paint) of any thickness. It also maintains the desired pressure and it is unaffected by the power the compressor.

Painting Your Chopper Motorcycle

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Building Your Own Motorcycle - Custom Chopper Kits Make it Cheap and Easy

Do you want to build a custom chopper that is unique but don't have the time or money available? Then have you ever thought about getting yourself one of the many custom bike kits which are now available. Certainly if this is the first time you are going to be building a custom bike then this will help you to get started and understand everything that goes into building one.

chopper bicycle frames

When deciding which custom bike kit to buy you need to look at more than just how much it costs. Although you won't spend so much on custom bike kits as you would on a bike that is ready made the cheaper one's are unlikely to give you a good quality bike. So it is far better if one actually spends time comparing the various ones available. Certainly it is worth spending a little more to save you a lot of heartache in the future.

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After you have completed your research and chosen the custom bike kit for you, then you are on the first rung of the ladder to creating something that is unique. Through using such kits one can learn everything that goes into constructing a custom bike and over the years you can then add to it as you wish. The one thing that will bring you satisfaction in the end is knowing that as you cruise around on it you are the one that has lovingly created it from the ground upwards.

But the great thing about custom bike kits is that they don't take any of the fun or enjoyment out of being able to build a motorcycle for yourself. Instead what they do is provide you with all the pieces that are needed to put it together. Certainly when you are doing any DIY project at home and find you have run out of something and need to go to the hardware store to get it, you generally decide to give up. However, with a custom bike kit this is something that need concern you.

Plus just because you use a custom bike kit it does not mean that you won't be add to include custom chrome or Harley aftermarket parts onto yours. In fact you have the opportunity to include these on yours if you so wish. You can if you want rather than use certain parts such as the seat or mirrors provided with the kit replace them with others that you prefer. Also you don't need to stick with the standard paint job that is suggested for your bike, but instead get something that really says who you are. This way what started as a standard custom bike will turn into something truly special.

Before when people wished to build their own custom bikes they needed to use various tools in order to create some custom parts. However, because custom bike kits have become increasingly popular so company's like Harley produce aftermarket parts such as wheels, seats, exhaust systems that can be used with them. Also no longer do you have to spend lots of money buying equipment such as blow torches or saws in order to create a one off piece of machinery.

The other benefit to be gained from purchasing custom bike kits rather than trying to build one from scratch is the cost. No longer do you have to spend time driving around looking for that part you need or buying parts which are wrong. With these kits everything is there already for you and you can then just decide if you want to replace some of these parts with something else when you feel like it.

Building Your Own Motorcycle - Custom Chopper Kits Make it Cheap and Easy

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